Ivy Lane Hotel, Colombo 22/ 11/ 23
I arrived in Mumbai on Sunday 19/11/23 by Vistara in a Boeing 787, possibly the second time I had been in that aircraft type and certainly the first time I had used Vistara. As it was Sunday Tai’s driver, Vijay’s off-day I arranged a prepaid taxi to Dushyant and Tai’s flat in Chandivali – I had always called it “Powai” in the past
I have a series of minor disasters to report. On the coach from Woking to Heathrow, I realized I hadn’t packed my cheque book for Bank of India. I had definite plans to withdraw money from my account and so cursed myself. It was amazing, I had it on my written to-do list. The second disaster took place at Mumbai airport. I had just finished filling in my airport disembarkation form when a chap, a European fella I think, probably British asked to borrow my pen to do the same thing. I told him it would hold me up but remembering I had an old biro in my backpack. I lent it to him saying “please catch me up and hand it back” and never saw the fellow again. I’ve always said never leave your house without your house keys, money and a pen. It’s annoying that some people don’t follow this principle and then need complete strangers to help them.
The third and most major of the minor disasters was that while I was in Mumbai, Australia beat India to win the 2023 ODI cricket world cup and by seven wickets! I had seen the Aussies beating India to win the 2003 World, again by a big margin in Johannesburg and on that occasion I had been to Jo’burg just for the World cup final!
The fourth minor disaster was that I probably left Jeremy and family’s present to me an English-French parallel text storybook on the plane from London to Mumbai. I’ve written to Vistara. I hope they recover it. We will have to see. Yet another “disaster” is that the flight ticket which Shilpa Chowdhary of Make-My-Trip travel agents sold me has very unsociable landing and take-off times for my Mumbai-Columbo-Mumbai trip. For the Mumbai Colombo leg Vijay Kamble agreed to take me to Mumbai airport outside his working hours and I paid him an amount which I hope he considers more than enough;
and as the flight got delayed from 3:00 a.m. to 5:00 a.m. I tried to get some sleep at the airport and then on the plane to Colombo.
Nilanka, the helpful receptionist at the Ivy Lane hotel let me check-in early at no extra cost.. He also suggested a place to find a mobile phone repairer to solve a problem my phone had somehow acquired. The place he suggested was Majestic City Shopping mall some 2 km from the hotel. I strolled over over at an easy pace ignoring all the rickshaw drivers offering me a ride. At the mobile repair shop a young fella tried my phone out with a different SIM card and then suggested that I replace my SIM. As I was leaving the shop, I realized that the problem had gone and so did the shop repairer. When I spoke to him again. I’ve decided to live with the original problem in Colombo I will not be able to connect to a Wi-Fi system. I do have 4G which will make communications with text and photos expensive..
Strolling back from majestic city I visited the waterfront which reminded me of Mumbai’s marine drive, a busy road along the sea front. However, when I noticed the train and the rail track between the road and the sea, the similarity diminshed. I noticed so many parallels between trains and train users here and in India in my youth that I took a few pictures which I should try and attach to this report.
Getting back on Galle road to return to my hotel I stopped for a coffee and cake at another shopping mall. It was air conditioned like other malls here. But the contrast between being exposed to the outside temperatures and those in the mall were very noticeable. It was definitely more comfortable indoors than outdoors.
I had a vegetarian evening meal at the hotel’s restaurant before retiring to my room and hoping to catch up on sleep.
I must add that before leaving for Sri Lanka I ate very well at Tai and Dush’s flat. They have an excellent cook. Tai, 83 now and I did some reminiscing. A few hours before my departure for Sri Lanka Dush joined us. It was enjoyable for all.
22nd of November 23
The Ivy Lane hotel, Colombo
I was due to do an eight-hour conducted tour of Colombo with a guy called Shiromal, but he rang saying that he could only start the tour at 1:00 p.m. I declined this offer and we agreed that the tour would take place tomorrow at 9:00 a.m..
I decided to visit the Lotus tower. Nilanka got me a cheap rickshaw using his Pick-me-up app. On reaching the site entrance I had a discussion with the driver about whether this was the tower I had had in mind because I did not remember that the tower Which I had spotted on the way to Colombo from the airport as being green.
I finally accepted that this was indeed the same tower. So I entered the complex and paid the entry fee by Mastercard. The other visitors were mainly locals. I took pictures from the highest from the highest level and later from ground level. On the grounds the lotus Tower there were more eating places than I had expected. Starting with an intention to eat only snacks finished up. eating a lot more then I should have done and, unusually for me, I didn’t quite finish my main dish which was definitely bigger than it appeared to be in the picture on the menu. Probably the best thing I did was to take photos of a lizard, a heron and a pelican. On leaving the Lotus Tower I strolled towards some buildings I had seen from the top. Then thinking it would soon be getting dark. I found a rickshaw to take me to the hotel and agreed with the driver to pay by the meter. He got me home or pretty close to home without a problem. Later I wondered off to a shopping mall to get a cup of Americano.
I could say my latest minor disaster is that Vodafone sent me a message about my high usage of calls and text messages. This is probably because of my phone’s inability to connect to a Wi-Fi source, any Wi-Fi source. I’ve been making WhatsApp calls and sending WhatsApp text messages using 4G. I have done something since then not to lose my mobile phone while I am on holiday. I hope it has worked. Night fell sometime ago and it’s raining outside as it did yesterday. It’s nearly 10:30 and I’m turning in. I hope tomorrow’s guided tour with Shiromal will be good.
Columbo 23rd November 23
Shiromal, the guide-driver arrived at 9:00 a.m. to get us started on the tour of Colombo. The first place we called at was the Galle Face hotel. A manageress met me at Shiromal’s request and showed us around the hotel for a while. Then Shiromal took over.. He took me to a display room which had an old car once owned by Prince Philip Duke of Edinburgh and portraits of famous people who had stayed at the hotel including Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, Clement Attley, actress. Jean Simmons, Harold MacMillan, Edward Heath, Indira Gandhi, Lex Barker (Tarzan I think).
We then drove off and parked not very far from the railway station. We commenced on a walking tour which included an old Dutch colonial building which we were not allowed to enter and where photography was forbidden. We carried on the Columbo’s main rail station where I observed the compartments wondering how how I would feel about travel traveling first class to Kandy. Shiromal pointed out the ticket purchase office. We walked at a good pace on a pre-arranged circuit that took us past the main bus station and a station for private buses. Shiromal then took me to a few shops where bought a little Sri Lankan elephant to add to my elephant collection at home. It was given to me in a paper bag with the word Shilpa written on it in big letters. That is the name of my travel agent. I took pictures of Columbo’s world trade center. We passed a shopping complex around the lake connected I think to the lake near the near the Lotus tower. We passed a square with a structure. of a telephone in somebody’s hand. It was near columbo’s main telecommunications area. We proceeded to Columbus port. Entry was costly so we skirted around to a spot where I wanted to photograph a bridge marked by an arc. We stopped near an artificial sandy beach and then visited Shiromal’s church where a service was going on. This church, Saint Anthony’s shrine was one of a few attacked by extremist Islamic groups causing deaths. We moved on to the Katharine temple. This was followed by a meal at an Indian restaurant where I regretted not getting photographed with a group of wedding guests in traditional Sri Lankan attire. One lady wore a beautiful white sari. We carried on towards a Buddhist temple. I stopped the car to try and make up for the missed photo opportunity to be snapped alongside three traditional Sri Lankan ladies. We went on to Buddhist temple which had many adherents passionately praying. There were large depictions of Hindu gods. Probably the most memorable thing was a living male elephant tied by chain to a tree so it couldn’t escape. The poor fellah was swinging his drunk around for exercise. The size of his penis suggested he was longing for a mate. Shiromal said it was too late to visit Sri Lanka’s parliament because the traffic at this time was going to be very heavy. Anyway he took me to the top of the Radisson hotel to get a view of the beach. In fact, this was the beach I had been to on my first day in Colombo. The road, which I told people reminded me of Mumbai’s Marine Drive is actually called Marine Drive.
24th November 2023.
I was meant to be going to go to Galle today with Shiromal but to reduce the risk of illness I decided to switch to Negombo instead. Shiromal had said that it was only 20 minutes away using the expressway. Shiromal agreed to take me to Negombo but didn’t reduce the charge to me by much. He had told me that Negombo was popular with foreign tourists and that there would be interesting things to see. As we were setting off I told Shiromal to take me to the to the Sri Lankan parliament – we had missed it on Day One. He suggested that before getting there should we stop at the Bandarnaike Convention center. We did and I took lots of pictures. From there we carried on to the Sri Lankan parliament. Having got to the area Shiromal got very cautious and stayed in his car giving me the freedom to go where I liked. As I started walking around the perimeter the guards got edgy. The first one showed me the point up to which I was allowed. I took a photo and was going to take more but another guard approached me and told me emphatically that photography was not allowed. I did manage to get another photo later but from a bit further away from the perimeter and I then we headed for Negombo. We drove through a fish market where I got Shiromal to stop the car and allow me to take a picture of the drying fish. The smells were similar to the ones I had experienced in Vile Parle in my youth.
Negombo was the first place I had been to in Sri Lanka with naturally sandy beaches.. Or at least I think they’re naturally sandy.
We traipsed round several hotels before settling down on one to have a lunch and a swim at. We had a buffet lunch and I spoilt myself with a glass of red wine and one of white. Neither them was quite like the wines we taste in Europe, but they were good enough. I paid for both our lunches. We then went to a nearby shop to find me some swim shorts. Thereafter I swam a few lengths in the swimming pool then ventured out to sea for a swim but it was just a dip. We then headed off home but the drive home was a lot more than 20 minutes!
25th November – heading for and getting to Kandy.
Shiromal and I had settled on a meeting time of 10:00 a.m. to head for Kandy at a price of 25,000 Sri lankan rupees. I thought this was high and so did Nilanka. When questioned Shiromal told Nilanka that the price covered the trip to Kandy and back – not too satisfactory I thought. In fact Shiromal was 75 minutes or so late. The other surprise for me what there was another man in the car. Shiromal explained that the other chap was going to drive the car back from Kandy. The going was slow because of the usual Sri Lankan traffic. Shiromal stopped for lunch at a restaurant he knows where there is a duet singing to customers. I told Shiromal that the lunch stop was not my idea. I had expected to be in Kandy by 1:00 pm for lunch. I would therefore not be paying for their lunches. He accepted this and showed me all the buffet choices. I settled on something from the display shelves. After a while the duet came to my table and sang a song in English. Probably “falling in love again”. They seemed to realize that I hadn’t long to wait and moved on. We recommenced our drive to Kandy and it soon became obvious that we weren’t going to be able to make the planned visit to an elephant orphanage. It was after probably after 5:00 p.m. when we got to the Hotel Suisse where they brought three glasses of juice for the three of us. I said “goodbye” to Shiromal before proceeding to my room.
I had time to walk clockwise around Kandy lake to the Temple of the Tooth. some people in white clothes were waiting to go in by the front entrance. The temple resembles a Japanese Pagoda. I had a rather filling Mini Idli Sambar and a Masala Dosa at Balaji Dosai’s vegetarian restaurant and followed up the meal with a laddu from a shop next door. I trudged back to the hotel and entered the dining area for a glass of red wine and coffee. There was another singing group with instruments. They played and sang some nice tunes. Getting back to my room I started writing my diary but felt tired and went to bed. There was an incident early in the evening. Hotel reception couldn’t find my room key but they did eventually.
26th November my full first day in Kandy
I was late getting up and decided it would be too much of a hurry trying to get down to breakfast at the hotel. Instead I showered and changed at my leisure and this time started an anti-clockwise walk around the lake.
On the walk, a local chap pointed out to bats in a tree on the periphery of the lake and a monitor something crocodile in the lake. Getting to the temple of the tooth. I wasn’t allowed to enter because I had shorts on. But I ate at a Pizza Hut. The service was slow but friendly. I got some Indian sweets from the day-before’s the sweet shop and then had a coffee at the same place.
I carried on in an anti-clockwise direction towards the hotel taking photos including one of me with three Muslim ladies.
Back at the hotel I had intended to rest and write a bit more in my diary. Instead, I spent time arranging a car trip to Bandarnaike airport on the 28th. I inquired about a tour of the area. A rickshaw fellow gave me his card saying he would stay with me all day for a thousand rupees.
Since I knew that there was to be a Kandian dance at the Kandian dance school at 5:00 pm and also wanted to enter the temple of the tooth I set off soon after 4:00 pm clockwise around the lake. Just when I would have used a rickshaw a rickshaw that wasn’t one of the hotel entrance. I got to the temple and now attired in trousers I was allowed in through the pagoda-like front entrance. There was a crowd of worshippers trying to enter the main building. I didn’t bother to join the group. I was told that nobody actually gets to see the Buddha’s tooth.
Next I went to the Kandian dance centre paid 2000 rupees for the entry fee and enjoyed watching some spectacular dancing. At the end I made sure I was photographed with some of the dancers. Then I headed back to the hotel to write a bit more in my diary and then try the hotel’s buffet meal.
Around 8:45 I got to the dining room, enjoyed there larger than usual vegetarian dish choice and had an “illegal” Illegal glass of red wine. The manager said he could let me have a glass of wine but in a cup and that he couldn’t give me a bill but wanted me to settle in cash. I finally signed my bill and got back to my room – No 302 to continue work on my diary.
27/11/23 Kandy
The day so far has not been what I would have hoped for. I did stuff myself in the hotel restaurant last night. That or something I had eaten earlier in the day has given me a bad tummy. I went to the toilet three or four times during the night for the “big job”. I was also coughing through the night and don’t know how much sleep I got. Hotel air-conditioning doesn’t seem to suit me. Anyway I went to the centre of Kandy to withdraw cash for tomorrow’s taxi to the airport. I tried four different ATMs all of which refused me cash. Back at the hotel I explained the situation to the staff, particularly Shering. Back in my room I rang HSBC in the UK. They said that they had no record of the attempted withdrawals. I explained this to Shering and the other reception staff who couldn’t help but were prepared to exchange, not my Indian rupees but my 30 pounds sterling for Sri Lankan rupees. The rate wasn’t good but the 10,500 Sri Lankan rupees I received gives me enough of a top-up for tomorrow’s taxi.
I went back to my room either to shake off my cough or update this diary or watch TV! The lazy approach was to stay in bed. That’s what I did leaving my window slightly open. uddenly I heard a noise at the window and saw a monkey’s tail exit. I then shut the window and went looking for damage. There was none except that the packets of powdered milk on the coffee/tea tray. Looking out of the window I saw the monkey licking up the powdered milk; clever monkey!
I exchanged messages with Tai who was asking about my programme. I had already sent it to her but did so again explaining that I would be arriving at an early hour on the morning of the 29th November. Shering the receptionist rang to say that she would be away tomorrow but could I give her a tip somehow. At the Ivy Lane Hotel, Colombo Nilanka got a tip without asking!
Since the end of the last paragraph I have walked to the restaurant area near Kandy lake. I was hoping to get a vegetable soup for my upset tummy. I found the next best thing, a mini idli sambar. It tasted good. I got back to the hotel and its restaurant, enjoyed the free coffee and with the permission of the staff picked up two small bananas for tomorrow morning. I shall now watch TV for the first time in Sri Lanka. Oh! I did watch it just before stepping out. That was the first time!
28/11/23, Colombo International Airport.
It’s 4.42 pm and I have been here for more than an hour. Lalith, the taxi-driver arranged by Kandy Herbal Centre at the hotel brought me here. The flight’s at 11.45 pm so I have lots of time to kill. My suitcase is with Left-luggage. I gave Lalith an envelope with a tip for Shering. I hope she gets it and appreciates it! I have just had a message fromShilpa saying my flight will depart at 1.45 am tomorrow. I am still coughing and my tummy is still funny. All I have had so far today are two cups of tea.
Check-in began at the pre-arranged time of 8.45 pm. I joined the queue but on getting to the counter I was told that the flight was overbooked and that the airline would put me up at a hotel and pay all my expenses. At first I resigned myself to this situation but, seeing the lady who was going to make the hotel reservation I asked if they could find me a seat with another airline. The lady came back aftger a while to say that I could stay on the same flight upgraded to business class. I was delighted and complimented her and her colleagues and also mentioned her to her manager. I decided then that despite my tummy I would have the food and drink the airline would be supplying. The flight was fine. I enjoyed the champagne, red wine and good food. But I didn’t get much sleep.
29/11/23 Powai (or Chandivali as I am told is more appropriate)
I am at Dush’s flat having got here very early I the morning. I ahd a few problems with the taxi drive who either didn’t have a satnav or didn’t know how to use it. In the dark I couldn’t guide him very well. We found “Golden Rays” with the help of a local chap. I gave the driver a tip he did not deserve.
It is late at night now. I’ll go to bed soon. I have bought a torch for Tai’s evening companion, Yamuna Bai, and a cough syrup and strepsils for myself. I am chatting with Tai while writing this diary.
30/11/23
I coughed a lot in bed last night and this morning. Tai gave me hot water to drink. It helped but I stayed in bed longer than I had intended to.
This afternoon Vijay gave me a lift to a laundry who should wash my clothes and iron my shirts. He also took me to a local optician who fitted a screw to replace one that came off my reading glasses last night. The optician didn’t charge me, that was nice of him. I spent twenty minutes strolling round a shopping complex near Hirandani Gardens and visited Make-my-Trip to give Shilpa something I had picked up by chance in Colombo. But her shutters were down. She was probably working from home.. In the evening I accompanied Tai on her constitutional walk in a garden/play area for Raheja residents. On the news it said Henry Kissinger died aged 100.
This brought up in my mind the question “who is responsible for the fact that I can’t get Al Jazeera and Russia today on my TV in Havant anymore”. The BBC surely, they get my licence fee. I must take some action
1/12/23
I woke up quite late this morning. My cough, much reduced still woke me up during the night. I tried to call Baba (Nurali) Jhanjaria using Tai’s mobile phone but there were complications with her phone and I gave up. I then tried to get Vijay to take me round the old haunts, Sandej, Mangalyam and so on but with little success. We went to Vile Parle West railway station first. It has been expanded and now includes a raised pedestrian walkway. We drove towards the old Vallabhai Patel Road and then along it. I noted an apartment block which may be Baba’s property or somehow related to it. We then must have passed the old “Mangalyam” and got to the old Ghodbunder Road, now Swami Vivekanand Road, turned right and headed for Juhu beach. We parked on the road running parallel to the beach and I strolled on to the sands of the beach. I recognised the old public toilet!
We then tried to find the old Sandej, Aai and Bappa’s last house before they moved into a flat in Pune. I wasn’t sure of the road number. It was actually North-South Road No 9. But we didn’t accept Vijay’s Satnav instruction on how to get there. I said to Vijay “let’s head for home”. We got there very slowly through traffic congestion. We are expecting Jayu and Rohini this evening to celebrate my recent 80th birthday I believe. It’s nice that Jayu, 76 years old is still working on contract to Air India and is very much in demand. India has a shortage of pilots and Jau is training Ukranian and Russian recruits. We downed two bottles of sparkling wine.
2/12/23
I had accepted an invitation to Yashi’s place for lunch. I was looking forward to it but only realised while showering that I was supposed to go to the Bank of India to collect my ATM card which they had said would be ready. Despite the slow traffic we got to the bank during its opening hours. I approached my contact, Mr Mohite about the card. NOW he tells me that the bank will need an Indian mobile number and an Indian address to supply me with at ATM card. There simply wasn’t enough time to get an Indian mobile number. I had complimented Mr Mohite earlier on his efficiency at work. I now have to withdraw those compliments.
I had apologised to Yashi about my expected lateness for lunch. She had accepted my reasons and then asked to be advised as I was approaching her flat. I picked up some washing and ironing as planned and notified Yashi that I was on my way. Yashi’s mother Belaji had eaten and retired to her bedroom as expected. I enjoyed lunch and we
chatted but as Yashi and Dush are divorcing I had to be careful what to say and what not to say. Dush had forewarned me.
Yashi has an excellent, roomy and well-maintained flat. It would suit Anju, Juno, Issy and me as our Mumbai base on our visit to India next March but there could be hurt feelings. Tai wants us to stay at her flat in Khar. Dush rang to say “hello” when I got back to his flat at “Golden Rays”
In the evening Jayu and Rohini called as expected and we celebrated my 80th birthday with a meal paid for by Dush. I expect we drank a bit as well!
3/12/23
My objective today was to have everything ready and usable for my journey back to base. Dush wanted photos of Tai and me. I took some. Vijay fortunately had agreed to drive me to the airport on his off-day. I trust he was happy with what I paid him.
At the airport I lost my belt! One has to take it off just after check-in but then one has remember it, find it and put it back on after one’s belongings have been checked.
It’s almost boarding time now.
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